Home brewer recipes. How to make homemade beer at home

Technology for preparing malt and beer from malt

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Beer recipes for home brewing. It is no secret that the taste, strength, level of bitterness and many other indicators depend on the beer recipe. Recipes for homemade beer can be found in abundance on the Internet, but I will try to collect only proven recipes for homemade beer. Brewing beer at home is not difficult if you strictly follow the recipe. Very strong taste ready drink depends on malts, hops and temperature breaks. Naturally, in this section of the site, I will indicate such important and necessary the right recipe beer, data.

First beer recipe.

March 26th, 2018 | admin

March 23rd, 2018 | admin

Classic mead recipe for homemade. I can immediately say that this mead recipe is not only classic, but also basic. This means that based on it you can create any other variations. So, the mead is classic.

The article will tell you about the principles of making beer at home.

A simple classic recipe and ingredients for homemade beer made from hops and malt: the preparation process

Beer has been one of mankind's most favorite drinks for several centuries in a row. However, it is worth noting that the classic natural beer is significantly different from those alcoholic synthetic drinks that are now presented in a wide variety. Natural beer is not only tasty, it is also healthy, since it consists only of products of plant origin.

Of course, in the modern world you can find many establishments (beer boutiques, bars and restaurants) that have their own brewery. This pleasure is not cheap and therefore not everyone can afford to have “your own personal brewery” at home for the production of beer. However, remembering old “grandmother’s recipes”, you are quite capable of making beer at home, it is only important to maintain the accuracy of the steps and the quantity of ingredients.

You can purchase the main ingredients, in particular hops and malt, at markets where summer residents and villagers often sell what they grew on their plots. If you do not find these products, they are always available in the assortment of online grocery stores. You don't need a microbrewery as equipment for brewing and the whole process will cost you just a fermentation vessel (glass bottle) and a saucepan.

You need to stock up for the recipe:

• Malt (barley only) – 4.5-5 kg
• Hops – 4.5-5 stacks. (need fresh buds)
• Brewer's yeast - 50 g (fresh or dry cannot be replaced)
• Sugar - 140-150 g (necessary for the fermentation process)
• Salt - 2/3 tbsp.
• Purified water - 20 l (filtered or purchased, without impurities, you can use cold boiled water).

Brewing beer:

• About a day in advance, soak the malt by dissolving it with the entire amount of purified water. Leave it until tomorrow.
• After infusion, the liquid should be poured into a large saucepan; there is no need to filter it. Turn on the heat and add salt.
• Cook the malt over moderate heat for approximately 2 hours.
• After this, pour the hops into the pan, stir and cook for another 25 minutes.
• Turn off the heat and cool the brew a little. Now it should be strained. To do this, you need to use gauze, folded twice or thrice. This is the wort. Keep it warm, about 30 degrees. Pour into a fermentation bottle.
• You can now add yeast and sugar into the strained wort (it is important to do this at the same time). Stir thoroughly with a long wooden spoon.
• Beer should ferment until 18:00. The place where you place the bottle should be warm and dark.
• After 18 hours of fermentation, bottle the beer and put it in the pantry; the drink will be ready only after 12-14 hours

IMPORTANT: From 20 liters of water you get almost 20 liters of beer, but if you don’t need a drink like this large quantities, you can evenly reduce the amount of all ingredients by half or three times.

How to make beer wort?

Properly prepared beer wort is the secret delicious beer, which you can get right the first time. Its preparation begins in several stages and, following each one, you will definitely do everything correctly.

Stages of wort preparation:

• Malt preparation. Malt is soaked wheat grains. After they have sprouted, the liquid should be drained from them and the grains themselves should be crushed. It is malt that gives beer its rich taste and body. You can crush it with a coffee grinder, meat grinder and even a blender (if there is such a function). The size of the crushed malt should be approximately half the size of a buckwheat grain (this is very important for the entire brewing process).
• Mashing. This process involves pouring purified water over the ground malt and boiling it. The process got its name many years ago and in brewing it is still called “mash.” During the cooking process, the starch of the grains is broken down and the acidity changes.
• Readiness. The wort should be boiled for several hours. The characteristic sour aroma, richness of taste and color of the liquid will tell you that the wort is ready. After this, you can add hops to the wort and brew beer.

How to make homemade beer yourself without equipment in a saucepan: a simple recipe

A simple recipe for making homemade beer will not take much time and effort. The method of brewing beer in a saucepan is simple and accessible to everyone. Adjust the amount of ingredients yourself, focusing on required amount ready drink.

What do you need:

• Hops – 15 g buds
• Purified water - 5 l (plus 250 ml for sugar syrup).
• Sugar - 240-250 g.
• Dry yeast - 10 g (can be replaced with brewer's yeast).

Cooking process:

• Boil the water
• Add hops to the pan and simmer the liquid for exactly 1.5 hours.
• While the hops are boiling, prepare sugar syrup(water and sugar in equal parts - 1 tbsp each).
• After 1.5 hours of boiling the hops, pour syrup into the liquid and continue cooking for another 20-25 minutes.
• Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool completely (to room temperature).
• Add yeast to liquid
• Cover with a lid and let ferment for 10-12 hours.
• After this, carefully strain the drink and bottle it. They must be tightly closed. Leave the drink for another 2-3 days before drinking.

Recipe and ingredients for grain dark homemade beer

Dark homemade beer will truly become your favorite “hoppy” drink, since it is not difficult to prepare, but the taste leaves an incredibly pleasant sensation.

What do you need:

• Dry hops – 50 g (crushed or pine cones)
• Chicory – 30 g (natural, without flavoring additives or aromas).
• Lemon zest - from one fruit
• Grain mixture for wort – 450-500 g (barley, wheat).
• Sugar - 3.5-4 tbsp.
• Purified water - 10 l.

Brewing beer:

• Dry the sprouted grain (soak it in advance) in a frying pan, in the sun or in the oven (at low temperatures).
• The sprouted grain mixture should be ground with a manual coffee grinder or meat grinder (it will be exactly the consistency that is needed).
• Mix the ground grain mixture with chicory. Do this in a brew pot ahead of time.
• Pour water over the grain mixture and put it on the fire, boil.
• Dissolve sugar in the remaining water
• Pour the water and sugar into the pan with the grain mixture.
• Add the required amount of hops and finely grated zest from one lemon.
• Bring to a boil again and turn off the heat
• Let the brew cool for 3 hours
• Pour the cooled wort into a fermentation bottle (it should be more pan, in which you cooked, twice).
• Leave the bottle to ferment in a warm place (about 25 degrees) for several days. If fermentation has not started, add additional brewer's yeast and leave for another day.
• Fermented beer should be carefully filtered to remove cake and only then poured into clean bottles, sealed with lids.
• The brewing time for beer is another 3 days in a cool place (during this time it will be saturated with gases).

Homemade barley beer recipe and ingredients

What do you need:

• Barley grain – 500-600 g.
• Hops – 5.5-6 tbsp. big shots
• Brewer's yeast or dry yeast - 50 g.
• Purified water - 6 l.
• Sugar - 240-250 g.
• Rusks of black and white bread - 2 tbsp.

Brewing beer:

• Pour the grains into a glass jar
• Fill the grains with water and let them stand in this state for about 3 days so that they germinate.
• Drain the water from the grains and dry them. Remove the sprouted parts.
• The grain should be ground; it is necessary for preparing the wort.
• After this, pour boiling water (1.5-2 l) over the ground grains and let them stand for about an hour.
• After this, pour black and white crackers into the malt (barley mass).
• Pour another 1-1.5 liters of boiling water and leave for another hour.
• After infusion, the liquid should be strained well.
• Place on the fire and add hops; cook for 15-20 minutes over moderate heat.
• After this, cool the liquid again and strain again.
• Pour yeast into the warm liquid and add sugar, mix well and leave to ferment for 2 or 3 days.
• After fermentation, the beer is bottled and left to steep for up to 2 weeks in a cool place.

Craft beer recipe at home

Craft in translation means “craft,” which means “craft beer” is a drink produced at home and not in large quantities. In the modern world, “craft” beer can be called any beer that is made in personal and private breweries using traditional technologies. This is always an original product and therefore you can always experiment with the ingredients of beer to get the most intense taste.

INTERESTING: Craft beer is often prepared from ready-made wort, which can be freely purchased on sale. In our assortment you will always find a variety of types of beer for brewing at home.

Simple homemade craft beer:

• Purchase 5 kg of barley wort
• Pour 35 liters of purified water into the wort and put on fire
• The liquid should be boiled and left to infuse.
• Strain and boil again (about an hour)
• After half an hour of cooking, pour 30 g of hops (pellets) into the pan.
• 5 minutes before the end of cooking, add another 20 g of hops
• After boiling, cool the wort to 20 degrees
• Pour the wort into a glass bottle
• Add 10-11 g of brewer's yeast to the bottle
• At room temperatures Beer should sit for up to 2 weeks, after which it can be cooled and drunk.

Important tips for preparing and drinking beer:

• Beer should be drunk only after the complete brewing and infusion process; in no case should the finished beer be diluted with water.
• No other ingredients should be added to beer other than hops, malt, water, sugar and yeast.
• Homemade beer, sealed in bottles, can be stored in the refrigerator for no more than six months.
• Use only glass containers for fermentation
• Crush the malt with a meat grinder or coffee grinder; a blender can turn the grain into flour, and this is harmful to the beer fermentation process.

Video: “Brewing beer at home”

Beer is considered one of the oldest drinks in the world. You won’t believe it, but recipes for making this drink have been known since the times of ancient Egypt. Below the cut, the author will tell you in detail how to make delicious beer at home. Feel like a brewer!

Brewing beer at home is not a particularly tricky thing, but in every sense it is godly. First of all, it's very tasty. Secondly, homemade beer made from natural raw materials gives an incomparably smaller hangover and the cumulative harm to health is also less. Thirdly, when you treat your friends and acquaintances, proudly declaring, “I cooked this myself,” then, seeing their round eyes, your ego swells to such a size that it prevents you from walking. For some reason, people believe that brewing beer is something between harsh alchemy and necromancy.

Equipment.
The first thing you need is a 40-liter saucepan or tank. It can be enameled, it can be made of stainless steel. Stainless steel is better, but more expensive. An enamel container is also okay, but three times cheaper. I bought this miracle for 2000 rubles. I barely found it, by the way. For home cooking, you can get by with pots of up to 50 liters. Then you need to buy more serious equipment, since carrying 50 liters of boiling water by hand is difficult and dangerous.

According to the degree of hardcore, home brewing can be divided into two types: concentrate and all-grain (grain).
In the first case, we have the wort ready, in the form of an evaporated concentrate. This is not chemistry. This is nothing like a natural product. Nowadays the choice of concentrates is very large, you can choose something for every taste. They cost around 800 rubles per can of 20 liters of finished beer.

In the second, we buy malt and mock it ourselves. There are, however, absolute perfectionists; they make their own malt from barley and prepare the water to achieve the required mineralization. Well, for example, if some beer is brewed in the English village of Fuckthishole, then the mineral composition of the local water is determined and the same is made. This is an over 80 level house. brewing For amateurs, it is enough to buy good water in a store or get it from a nearby well/spring/tap.

Next, you need to turn a banal saucepan into a mash brewer. You can use two containers, one for mashing, the second for cooking, but in an apartment, the less bulky trash, the less the wife swears. Which is important for a brewer. We go to the nearest construction market and purchase the necessary parts:

1. Half-inch brass fitting, plus two locknuts, plus two silicone gaskets, plus two fluoroplastic gaskets.
2. Ball valve with internal thread, also ½ inch.
3. American for soldering with a copper tube.
4. Angle fitting.
5. Three copper tees with a diameter of 15mm.
6. Four corners 15 mm.
7. Two meters of unannealed copper tube.
We drill a hole in the pan as low as possible (here, who has what kind of tool and handy skills), trying to damage the enamel as little as possible, and assemble the following structure:

First we place a silicone gasket on the wall of the pan, and a fluoroplastic gasket on it. Otherwise, the silicone nuts will tighten.

Well, the wort brewer is already ready. Now let's upgrade it to a mash. Here it is necessary to delve a little deeper into the theory.
Mashing is the process of keeping the mash (water + malt) at a certain temperature. This holding is called a temperature pause. During this time, enzymes contained in malt break down starch, which is a polysaccharide, into more simple sugars, edible for yeast. The enzymes involved in this process are the so-called alpha and beta amylases. According to the figurative expression of one of our colleagues, if you imagine starch as a tree, then beta-amylases bite small branches (fermentable sugars), reach the fork of the branch and freeze, and alpha chops haphazardly into random pieces (non-fermentable sugars). The thing is that these enzymes are most active when different temperatures. Beta-amylase at 60-65 degrees, alpha at 70-75. Accordingly, if we let the beta work longer, we will get a wort of maximum fermentability, a high amount of alcohol, but a rather empty taste, because the yeast will convert all the sugars into alcohol and water. On the contrary, if alpha-amylases rule, then the beer will be dense, rich, but very light, because there will be practically nothing for the yeast to eat. Combining temperature pauses and achieve the desired balance between the body of the beer and the alcohol. Here, the theory is rough.
To turn our tank into a mash tank, we need to assemble a filter element. This, unfortunately, requires some hand-wringing.

To begin with, we take an American piece, a tee, a piece of copper tube and solder one to the other.

Soldering copper tubes is easy. You need solder, always lead-free, and flux. All this is freely sold in markets or plumbing stores. The solder is Sn97-Cu3. Soldering will not work without flux; the solder will simply drain from the copper. If you have a gas torch for soldering, that’s good; if not, it will do. gas stove. We clean the surfaces, apply a thin layer of flux, put everything together and heat it up. When small droplets of tin appear on the parts coated with flux, we bring the solder wire to the joint and the tin itself will be drawn there under the action of capillary forces. Cool and voila. Just remember that copper has exceptional thermal conductivity; work only with a tool, otherwise a severe burn is guaranteed. Copper cannot be thrown from hand to hand like a coal; even a short touch will cause a burn.

Here is such a device of Satan.
The last thing you need to do is a cooler, or, as it is called, a chiller. Again we go to the market and buy 10-12 meters of annealed copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm and several meters (depending on how far the brewing will be from the point of connection to cold water) of any hose, plus a couple of clamps. The annealed tube, in contrast, is easily bent by hand. So we bend it, winding it around something that is suitable in diameter. Then, carefully, with a large radius, so as not to bend, we bring the end up. For rigidity, you can solder the turns to the vertical tubes, but I just tied them with copper wire (in hand-assing there should be “asshole”).

Now let's move on to what is problematic to do yourself.

1. Hydrometer AC-3. This garbage is needed to measure the density of the wort. It's possible without it, but it's better with it. Many people use refractometers for this, but I haven’t used them myself, so I won’t say anything.
2. Fermentation container. Now many online stores offer these 32-liter barrels with a water seal (4) and a faucet (5). Also with a scale and a glued liquid crystal thermometer. You can buy it like this, or separately. But, if in brewing stores this tank costs 300 - 350 rubles, then in offices selling plastic containers, it costs 160 rubles. A matter of taste and laziness.
3. Malt mill. This particular one is called Comfort-500, made at the state farm named after the 47th anniversary of Mao, it looks scary, the metal processing is at the level of the Stone Age, but it costs one and a half thousand and does its job. The same one, but made in Belgium, costs 3,500. Advanced two- or three-roll mills already cost from 5 to 9 thousand. No coffee grinders, meat grinders or blenders will do. I'll explain why a little later. A rolling pin will do, but it will not be grinding, but the punishment of God and the seven plagues of Egypt.
4. ---
5. ---
6. Accurate digital thermometer with remote probe. Accurate at least within a degree. An absolutely necessary thing. The one in the picture I foolishly bought for 1,500 rubles. Then it turned out that you could buy a good Chinese thermometer for 300 rubles. On Avito.
7. Libra. You also need more or less accurate ones. If it's within a gram, then it's ideal. In the picture Energy-403 weighs up to 5 kg, there is a container function. Accuracy - grams. Well, that's what it says...

The last thing we need is a meter and a half of SILICONE hose for the fitting on the pan. I didn’t draw it, the hose and the hose are so transparent. It is needed to drain hot wort. PVC will not work; when heated, it stinks and releases all sorts of nasty things. What you need is a medical silicone hose suitable for sterilization. Where to get it depends only on your imagination.
That's all. A micro-brewery for the home, for the family, is ready. There are also all sorts of small things that make the process easier, but at first you can get by. The budget for all this disgrace ranges from 10 to 15 thousand.

Now, let's move on to the actual brewing of beer. I just want to clarify right away that in addition to equipment and ingredients, you will also need a lot of patience. The cooking process itself takes 6-8 hours, fermentation from 7 to 14 days, aging from a couple of weeks to a year. That is, even in the simplest case, you will try your first beer no earlier than a month after brewing. But believe me, it's worth it.
And another important point. The room in which all this devilry is happening must be clean. No mold in the corners, no fermented milk products near. No animals. Wort is a super-nutrient medium for fungi and bacteria. Therefore, the cleaner the room, the less chance of beer contamination. I’ll write below about equipment disinfection later.
So, let's cook the Black Rhinoceros. This recipe, clearly in a state of enlightenment, was invented by a friend from a club house. brewers with the nickname Rhinoceros. The beer is dark. Therefore black.
We will need, based on 28 liters of finished beer (we are limited to a 32-liter fermenter):
Munich malt, Munich, with a color of EBC 25 (in stores there will be “Munich-25”) - 5.77 kg.
Melanoidin malt, Melano, EBC 80 – 0.87 kg.
Caramel malt, Cara, EBC 50 (you can use Cara-150, it will be darker and richer) – 0.35 kg.
Traditional hops, also known as Traditional – 20 grams.
Zatetsky hops or Saaz – 40 grams.
Yeast Fermentis Safale S-04 – one sachet about 11 grams.
First things first, the malt needs to be ground. We take out our hellish mill and go ahead. You can twist it with your hands, you can attach a screwdriver, I acted more cunningly and plowed my little one. Six kilos of malt will require half an hour of time with smoke breaks.

The trick to grinding malt is that you need to get not flour, but grains crushed into several parts and at the same time intact shells. This is why no coffee grinders are suitable. These shells, settling to the bottom of the mash, form a filter layer through which the wort is actually filtered. And flows through our filter system from copper tubes. The cuts are small enough for the husk to slip through, but large enough for filtering to take a reasonable amount of time. Without this husk, the spent grain will quickly clog the slots and the wort will be filtered until the advent of democracy in North Korea. This is what ground malt looks like:

This recipe uses a single pause mash at 72 degrees. Above I talked about how temperature affects mash. So this beer should turn out “full-bodied” with a small amount alcohol. We put a filter in the tank, take four times more water (24 liters) relative to the amount of malt and heat it to 78 degrees; when adding malt, the temperature will drop to the desired 72. By the way, a degree here or a degree here is not fatal. But at more than 75, enzyme activity drops sharply. Overheat ninada.

Close the lid and wrap the tank in a blanket/padded jacket as tightly as possible.

We wait an hour and a half. 1 hour, 30 minutes. Patience... Patience...
While the malt is mashing, prepare the yeast. The yeast is dry - it needs to be rehydrated.
We take a jar, flask or something similar, sterilize it in boiling water and pour about 250 ml of boiled water into it. Water temperature is 20-24 degrees. Pour the yeast from the bag into it and plug the neck with cotton wool. Dry yeast has added nutrients for the first time, so you can get by with just water. They will begin to wander there in half an hour.
An hour and a half passed. Now we need to carry out the so-called “iodine test”. Take a little wort with a spoon and drop iodine into it. If the color has not changed, it means there is no more starch in the mash, everything has been broken down into sugars. And this is buzz. If it turns blue, it’s not bad at all. You can also try keeping the wort under a blanket, but most likely this will not help. Although I have not yet seen high-quality imported malt turn blue after mashing on an iodine test.
Now it's time for a mystical process cleverly called mash-out. We put the tank on the stove and, stirring constantly - because it will burn, we bring the temperature of the mash to 78 degrees. Turn off the heat and keep it like this again under the blanket for 15 minutes. This is necessary to stop the activity of enzymes. The breakdown of starch stops.
During these 15 minutes, prepare the water for rinsing. This is such a special water, differing from ordinary water only in that it is heated to 80 degrees. When we drain the primary wort, a lot of sugars will remain in the grain. It’s no good throwing away a good thing, so we’ll try to wash them out of there.

What is the hose for? The thing is that hot wort actively oxidizes upon contact with air. And this gives an off-flavor in the beer. To minimize contact with air, a hose is needed.
At first, the wort will be very cloudy - the husks have not yet properly settled to the bottom, so we return the first liters drained back. There is a subtlety here - it is important for us that a filter layer is formed, but by pouring the wort back into the tank, we will agitate the sediment again. To avoid this, we put a large plate on top, even if it sinks, everything will now pour onto it and will not disturb the grain.
Drain slowly. As soon as clean wort is released, we stop returning it to the mash and begin to take it into the fermentation room.

At the same time, we make sure that the grain is not exposed. As soon as it appears, add rinsing water. So, gradually, draining and adding, we need to collect 30-32 liters of wort. At the end, we stop pouring the rinsing water and simply drain everything that is there. The first part of the Marlezon ballet is completed. We throw away the spent grain, unscrew the filter, rinse the tank and pour clean filtered wort into it. And let it boil. 30 liters will take a long time to heat up, you can speed it up by covering it with a lid. But keep in mind that if you miss the moment of boiling, the wort will run away, and cleaning the stove from burnt sugar is hell and Israel. You will also hear from your wife a lot of interesting things about yourself, about beer and about the universe in general.
As soon as it boils, weigh out 20 grams of traditional hops and throw it in. These are bittering hops. Let it boil for 50 minutes. In total we need to cook for 90 minutes or an hour and a half. During this time, about 3-4 liters will boil away, everything unnecessary will evaporate with steam, some of the sugars will caramelize and the walls of the room will be covered with droplets of condensation.

Wash the fermentation chamber thoroughly, fill it with water and pour a bottle of 5% pharmaceutical iodine into it. We also throw a water seal with a stopper there and push in the fermentation lid. This is disinfection. Iodine decomposes quickly, so it does not leave any foreign odors or tastes. Instead of iodine, you can use special disinfectants; specialized stores sell them in disastrous quantities. Let's leave it like that.
After 50 minutes, weigh 20 grams of Zatec and add it to the wort. These are flavor hops.
15 minutes before the end of cooking, connect the chiller to cold water and lower it into the wort. This is so that it has time to sterilize with boiling water.

Five minutes before the end of cooking, add the remaining 20 grams of Zatec. These are the aroma hops. In total we will get about 20 IBUs (bitterness units). This is such a mild, pleasant bitterness.
We pour part of the wort into a 100 ml beaker, which I forgot to write about in the equipment, and separately cool it strictly to 20 degrees to measure the density. We put the hydrometer in there so that it floats and look at the value of the initial density (ID). In this recipe we need to get 13.5% NP. If there is more, you just need to add boiled water. If less, boil more. Although less is unlikely. In general, the output should be 28 liters.

(Here, unfortunately, is a photo from another brew; the hydrometer shows 14.5%)

Upon completion of cooking, turn on the water in the chiller and turn off the heating. The point of the chiller is that the wort must be cooled as quickly as possible from 100 to 20-24 degrees suitable for yeast. This copper spiral will do the job in about 15 minutes. If you take the tank to the bathroom and put it in cold water– it will take 40-50 minutes. And the longer the wort sits and comes into contact with air, the greater the likelihood of infecting it with “wild” yeast or bacteria, which fly around in abundance.

During these remaining five minutes, we run to the fermentation room and pour out the iodine solution. Those who wish can rinse with boiled water, but, in principle, this will do. Drain the cooled wort into a clean, disinfected fermenter. From a height of at least a meter.

The meaning of this action is that the wort, falling, is saturated with oxygen. Yeast, they are living creatures, they also need to breathe. For beers with a low initial gravity, such as this one, this method is suitable, but for high-gravity beers, additional aeration is necessary.
We take the yeast in a flask, by this time it will already give rich foam and pour it into the wort.
We close the fermenter with a lid, insert a water seal (without pouring anything into it yet) and shake it for another five minutes for greater aeration. Again, shaking a 30 kg container is good exercise. We take the fermentation chamber to a dark and cool place and only then pour either vodka or boiled water into the water seal. If you immediately pour liquid, then at the first attempt to lift the fermenter, this liquid will immediately be sucked inside.
All. Now wait 14 days. And, another clarification: S-04 yeast requires a fermentation temperature of 18-25 degrees. If less, fermentation will be sluggish. If more, during the fermentation process they will release a bunch of esters, which will have an unpredictable effect on the taste and aroma of beer. Therefore, it is advisable to maintain this interval during fermentation.

Here they are, wandering around. Below - the previous cooking is standing, carbonizing.

Two weeks passed….
By this time, we went to the store and bought a pack of liter PET bottles with caps and a pack of glucose/dextrose. This sugar is better absorbed by yeast than the sugar we are used to and does not give a brown taste. Now is the time to bottle the “green” or “young” beer.
To begin with, let’s pour a little from the tap into a beaker and measure the final gravity of the beer (CF). I got 5%. Which, given the temperature at which we mashed (more non-fermentable sugars), is quite normal. From the table we find the alcohol content – ​​4.5%. A light and full-bodied beer, as expected.
In order for the beer to be saturated with carbon dioxide, you need to add a little glucose to each bottle, since everything in the wort has already been eaten. Having consumed this sugar in a closed bottle, the yeast will saturate the beer with gas. This is called “natural carbonation”, in contrast to artificial saturation with carbon dioxide under pressure in kegs. There's really no difference. In this recipe, comrade Rhino indicated 7 g/liter, so we will add 7 grams of dextrose or glucose to each bottle.
We open the fermentation chamber and enjoy the smell for a couple of minutes. Then we take our silicone tube (pre-disinfected) or a special siphon, fill it with boiled water and, holding one end with a finger, lower the other into beer. The siphon principle, yeah, the fermentation chamber should be higher than the bottles.
By the way, here, if you still use a tube, you need the help of another person, preferably homo sapiens. All these movements are meant to pick up the beer from above without touching the sediment, which will be 2-3 centimeters at the bottom.
Well, we remove our finger, wait for the water to pour out somewhere and the beer to flow out, and lower the tube to the very bottom of the bottle. Again, avoid excessive contact with air. We fill the bottle. When there are three or four centimeters left to the neck, squeeze the bottle, squeezing out the air and close the lid. And so many times.
When everything is poured, we leave these flounder-like bottles in a dark and not necessarily cool place. A week for carbonation. During this time, the yeast will eat the glucose, the bottles will inflate and turn to stone. By the way, this will also be natural preservation. There is nothing left to eat there, there is no oxygen, there is no contact with air. Beer in PET bottles can be stored quietly for six months (no longer is necessary, after all, gas exchange occurs through the pores of the plastic), and in glass for several years. After carbonation, the beer needs to sit for another month, but I started opening it within a week. I'm not made of iron. Although after a month of aging it undoubtedly became better. True, by that time half of the cooked food was left...

On the left is wheat, on the right is “Black Rhino”.

Well, that's all. This method does not claim to be the only correct one. I wrote it the way I did it personally. There are a lot of options here. But with this set of pans you can cook whatever your heart desires. But my soul is capricious and restless.