The famous French writer and gourmet Alexandre Dumas once said that the merits of national cuisine are most apparent in desserts. Traditional Russian cuisine, although it cannot boast the same extensive range of sweet dishes as French, can rightly be proud of the few that are. These delicacies not only taste great, but also usually have interesting history origin. Here, for example, is the famous Guryev porridge, so dearly loved by our ancestors.
How popular this sweet porridge was once, judge for yourself: even such a culinary connoisseur and connoisseur fine dining, as Count Sergei Witte, an outstanding statesman from the time of Emperor Nicholas II, called Gurievskaya "the queen of desserts."
After the revolution, this "bourgeois" delicacy was undeservedly forgotten, but time put everything in its place: now Guriev's porridge can be found on the menu as democratic chains Catering and fashionable restaurants. And abroad, this dish has never gone out of fashion: for 200 years now, it has enjoyed constant success among true connoisseurs of good food.
The famous porridge appeared at the beginning of the 19th century. The then Minister of Finance, member of the State Council, one of the most influential people of that time, Count Dmitry Alexandrovich Guryev once visited his old friend, retired major of the Orenburg Dragoon Regiment, Georgy Yurisovsky. The latter, wanting to surprise the count, the epicurean and the aesthete, ordered his serf cook Zakhar Kuzmin to create a dinner that would surpass any delights of the then fashionable french cuisine. There was a lot of food: and goose liver, and grated grouse, and black caviar, but the main surprise was waiting for the count at the end.
For dessert, a dish specially invented for this occasion by Kuzmin was served - the most delicate porridge made from semolina in milk with the addition of nuts, creamy foams and dried fruits. As soon as he tasted this porridge, the count, according to legend, shed tears of emotion, ordered the cook to be called and kissed him three times.
Soon, having spent the amount for which in those years it was possible to purchase a decent estate, he bought Kuzmin along with his family and made him his personal chef. And the dessert invented by Zakhar, called " Guryev porridge”, has become one of the most fashionable dishes of the capital’s beau monde.
Soon, dessert porridge became an indispensable attribute of imperial dinners - Emperor Alexander II highly appreciated it, and his son, Alexander III, generally called it his favorite delicacy.
Ironically, a tragic episode from the life of the royal family is also connected with Guryev's porridge. In 1888, during a railway trip, Alexander III was served his favorite dessert. At that moment, when the king was pouring cream over the porridge, there was a terrible roar - the train derailed. Subsequently, the sovereign said that Guryev's porridge saved his life - the cars where the king's bedrooms and office were located were simply crushed, only the dining car, where he was, was not damaged!
Guryev porridge
It will take: 1.25 l milk, 1/2 cup semolina, 500 g nuts (in equal proportions hazelnuts, cedar and walnut), 10 pcs. bitter almonds, 5 drops of almond essence, 1/2 cup sugar, half a cup of jam (pitted strawberry or cherry), 2 tbsp butter, 1 cardamom pod, 4 tsp. ground lemon peel, a little ground star anise.
Cooking: Peel nuts from shells, fill for 2 minutes. boiling water, peel, dry in a hot frying pan, crush in a mortar, adding 1 tsp. warm boiling water to each tablespoon of nuts. Then transfer to a separate bowl. Prepare milk foams (kaymak). Pour the milk into cast iron pan, put in a preheated oven and we will remove the foams as they brown, putting them in a separate bowl. In total, up to 16 foams can be collected in this way. In the remaining milk, boil thick semolina porridge, making sure that there are no lumps in it. Place crushed nuts, sugar, butter, ground spices into the prepared semolina and mix thoroughly. IN enamel pan with high edges or a stewpan pour semolina porridge in a 1 cm layer, cover it with foam, pour in the next layer of porridge, a quarter thinner, and again cover with foam, and so on. In the last layer of porridge, add jam and star anise. For 10 min. put in a preheated oven with low heat. Remove, grease with jam, add the remaining crushed nuts and serve on the table in the same bowl as cooked.
August 20th, 2016 , 10:21 pm
It is believed that porridge in Rus' has been cooked since ancient times. All classes ate it. Among the variety of porridges, Guryev porridge, especially loved by the Russian nobility, stands out. Guryev porridge is a special way of preparing semolina, which is baked in the oven with nuts and honey.
The history of Guryev porridge
Where did the name of this unusual porridge? According to one version, this dessert was invented and prepared by the cook of Count Guryev, who served as a mayor in Odessa.
According to the second version, the history of Guryev porridge began with the fact that Count Guryev received an invitation to visit from a retired major Yurusovsky. For dessert, they served an unusual and very delicious porridge, cooked in a special way. Count Guriev was a man close to the imperial court, for this reason it was difficult to surprise him with culinary delights. But unusual dessert pleasantly surprised him. The count personally thanked the cook, and then, after a short haggling, bought him and his family from Yurusovsky. It is believed that after this, the unusual dessert got its name, but Count Guryev never knew how to prepare it.
Over time, Guryev porridge conquered the Russian nobles. After a short time amazing delicious dessert began to cook in almost all country mansions. After the porridge recipe appeared in cookbooks, it began to be cooked in European cuisines.
Guryev porridge recipe
You need to take:
Semolina - ½ cup
Milk (fat content not less than 5%) - 1.2 liters
Honey - 1 cup
Various nuts - 1 cup
Pears, apples - 60 grams each
Raspberries and blackberries - all together 70 grams
Lingonberries - 30 grams
Sugar - 1 teaspoon
Vanillin - 1 teaspoon
Cooking:
Milk must be poured into a saucepan with a thick bottom, add vanillin and heat over low heat for an hour and a half. The foam that forms during languor must be collected and put in a separate container.
In boiling baked milk in a thin stream, stirring constantly, we fall asleep semolina.
While the milk is cooking, you can prepare nuts and fruits. To do this, you need to take half a portion of honey and boil nuts in it. Fruit cut into cubes and stew in the second half of honey.
It remains to form a dish. We need a container with high walls. At the bottom it is necessary to lay part of the foam. The second layer lay out half a portion of semolina porridge. Then some foam. Now we put some of the boiled nuts and fruits. We spread the remaining semolina, and then the foam. Place nuts and fruits on top.
The dish is almost ready. It remains to sprinkle the porridge with sugar and put it in the oven with a temperature of 180 degrees to form a crust.
At present, the basis of Guryev porridge has remained unchanged, but various dried fruits and fresh berries have been added to it.
Porridge in Rus' from time immemorial was considered traditional dish, which was loved by all segments of the population, regardless of class and financial condition. For this reason, Russian National cuisine abounds huge amount most different recipes cooking porridges, but a very special case should be recognized as Guryev porridge, so named because, according to legend, it was first cooked by Count Dmitry Guryev (Minister of Finance and member of the State Council of Russia).
However, Guryev porridge, the recipe for cooking, history ascribes to another person. There are stories that tell that it was cooked for the first time at the beginning of the 19th century by Zakhar Kuzmin, the serf cook of Georgy Yurisovsky. Somehow Guryev also visited him.
There he noticed talented chef and bought it from the landowner, a retired major of the Orenburg Dragoon Regiment. This nugget became a full-time cook of the Guriev court. Which story is more truthful is up to biographers and historians to decide, but for us it is not so important. The main thing is that the recipe for porridge is now known to everyone.
Speaking about the peculiarities of cooking Guryev porridge, you can see that this recipe combines not only the traditions of Russian folk cuisine, and therefore Zakhar Kuzmin could hardly have come up with it. Apparently, along with the veneration of his native cuisine, Count Guryev was also a fan of French culinary art.
Therefore, the recipe for the porridge he invented is enriched various additions, not typical for Russian cuisine. One of these ingredients is dried apricots, from the processing of which, in fact, the preparation of Guryev porridge begins.
Processing consists in the fact that dried apricots must be sorted, washed thoroughly cold water, and then pour fresh boiling water and wrap in this state. This is necessary so that the dried apricots soften differently in ready porridge it will come across in the form of very hard pieces.
While dried apricots are infused, you can start preparing other components of porridge - nuts. There is no specific variety of nuts, without which Guryev porridge would not be considered Guryev porridge. More often it is recommended to use hazelnuts, but you can replace it with almonds, or even walnuts. And if you wish, you can use a mixture of all three types.
If you decide to use almonds or hazelnuts, then their kernels must first be peeled, for which you will need to scald them with boiling water. Walnuts they don't need it. Prepared nuts should be finely chopped and fried in a pan without adding oil.
Now let's move on to the next step. Pour 1.5 liters of cream into a flat dish, put them in an oven preheated to 200 degrees, where they will languish. At the same time, it is necessary to periodically remove the film from their surface and collect it in a separate bowl, since it will be needed in the future.
After some time, 300 g of semolina is added to the stewed cream, resulting in liquid semolina Guryev porridge, to which cooked nuts, salt and 100 g of sugar are added.
Do not forget to mix the resulting mass thoroughly, after which it will need to be decomposed into clay pots. In this case, it is necessary to alternate layers of manna-nut mixture with layers of well-squeezed dried apricots and creamy foams. For the sake of facilitating your task, you should not make too thick layers. The more layers you get, the more correct the porridge will be and, accordingly, tastier.
Moreover, you need to try to calculate the number and thickness of the layers in such a way that the top layer turned out to be cream foam, on top of which nuts are laid as a finishing touch, but not those that you finely chopped and fried at the very beginning. For the top layer, you will need to use whole or very coarsely chopped nut kernels.
Now you need to put the pots in the oven, heated to the same 200 degrees. Covers are not needed, they are used instead butter dough. It is rolled into thin sausages, which fit into the neck of the pots in the form of a ring adjacent to the walls of the pottery.
You need to keep the pots of porridge in the oven until the surface of the creamy foams with nuts becomes sufficiently ruddy. As soon as this happens, Guryev porridge can be considered ready, taken out of the oven and served, after decorating with whole berries or pieces of fruit.
In this matter, as well as with nuts, the cooking recipe does not give any specific recommendations, so you can choose fruits for decoration according to your own taste and focusing on seasonal availability. It is best to use fresh peaches, apricots, strawberries.
Guryev porridge is one of delicious dishes traditional Russian cuisine. The basis of its preparation is ordinary semolina, but it must be boiled in milk (and with foam) and add nuts to it (the tastiest thing is obtained with hazel or almonds, but ordinary walnuts are also suitable, and modern cooks even add peanuts) and jam (or dried fruits - dried apricots, raisins and others).
This is not only a delicacy that can surprise guests at a meal (before, Guryev porridge was rarely used as everyday food), but also a very healthy and satisfying dish.
The history of the origin of Guryev porridge.
Porridge has been known since the beginning of the 19th century, although there is an opinion that it was cooked before. The name of the porridge comes from the name of the then Minister of Finance (and, accordingly, one of the most influential people in the Russian Empire) Count Dmitry Alexandrovich Guryev (1751 - 1825), but the inventor of the dish was the serf cook Zakhar Kuzmin, whom the count bought from his former owner, Major Georgy Yurisovsky (and it is believed that Kuzmin came up with a recipe for porridge when he worked for Yurisovsky).
As a result, porridge became popular with the Russian nobility and even in the imperial family (it is known that Alexander the Third loved it very much). It is worth noting that if the aristocrats served this porridge at gala dinners, then in the royal family, apparently, it was still included in the daily diet, since historians report that on the day of the train crash (1888), the waiter had to add cream to it at the request of the king.
It's interesting that semolina with nuts and fruits gradually gained popularity not only in Russia, but also abroad. The first tasting of this delicacy in France took place in 1814, that is, when the Russian army not only drove the French troops out of their native country, but also took Paris.
How porridge was cooked in Rus'
Everyone knows the recipe for regular semolina porridge. In Rus', it was cooked in ovens and mixed with nuts (they should have been crushed and ignited a little beforehand). At the same time, it was necessary to heat the cream (rarely milk) so that foam formed (in our time, a frying pan is used for this, and earlier the cream was placed in the oven in ordinary cast-iron or clay pots). It was also allowed to use kaymak - special heavy cream. Then it was necessary to add milk / cream with foam or kaymak to the porridge and cook in the oven over low heat. Ready meal decorated with dried fruits, and sometimes with jam.
Modern possibilities, of course, involve the use of ordinary cauldrons and pans instead of pots and an oven instead of a stove. By the way, in our time, cream is heated in a frying pan, and semolina itself is cooked in a saucepan. It is also possible to deviate from classic recipe(some cooks add eggs to the dish). Current housewives also put regular and / or vanilla sugar, but in the old days were limited a small amount ordinary sugar.
The famous French writer and gourmet Alexandre Dumas once said that the merits of national cuisine are most apparent in desserts. Traditional Russian cuisine, although it cannot boast the same extensive range of sweet dishes as French, can rightly be proud of the few that are. These delicacies not only taste great, but also usually have an interesting origin story. Here, for example, is the famous Guryev porridge, so dearly loved by our ancestors.
How popular this sweet porridge once was, judge for yourself: even such a connoisseur of culinary and connoisseur of gourmet dishes as Count Sergei Witte, an outstanding statesman from the time of Emperor Nicholas II, called Guryev’s “Queen
desserts."
After the revolution, this "bourgeois" delicacy was undeservedly forgotten, but time put everything in its place: now Guryev's porridge can be found on the menu of both democratic catering chains and fashionable restaurants. And abroad, this dish has never gone out of fashion: for 200 years now, it has enjoyed constant success among true connoisseurs of good food.
The famous porridge appeared at the beginning of the 19th century. The then Minister of Finance, member of the State Council, one of the most influential people of that time, Count Dmitry Alexandrovich Guryev once visited his old friend, retired major of the Orenburg Dragoon Regiment, Georgy Yurisovsky. The latter, wanting to surprise the count, epicurean and aesthete, ordered his serf chef Zakhar Kuzmin to create a dinner that would surpass any delights of the then fashionable French cuisine. There was a lot of food: goose liver, and grated grouse, and black caviar, but the main surprise was waiting for the count at the end.
For dessert, a dish specially invented for this occasion by Kuzmin was served - the most delicate porridge made from semolina in milk with the addition of nuts, creamy foams and dried fruits. As soon as he tasted this porridge, the count, according to legend, shed tears of emotion, ordered the cook to be called and kissed him three times.
Soon, having spent the amount for which in those years it was possible to purchase a decent estate, he bought Kuzmin along with his family and made him his personal chef. And the dessert invented by Zakhar, called "Guryev porridge", has become one of the most fashionable dishes of the capital's beau monde.
Soon, dessert porridge became an indispensable attribute of imperial dinners - it was highly appreciated by Emperor Alexander II, and his son, Alexander III, generally called it his favorite delicacy.
Ironically, a tragic episode from the life of the royal family is also connected with Guryev's porridge. In 1888, during a railway trip, Alexander III was served his favorite dessert. At that moment, when the king was pouring cream over the porridge, there was a terrible roar - the train derailed. Subsequently, the sovereign said that Guryev's porridge saved his life - the cars where the king's bedrooms and office were located were simply crushed, only the dining car, where he was, was not damaged!
Guryev porridge
You will need: 1.25 l of milk, 1/2 cup of semolina, 500 g of nuts (hazelnuts, cedar and walnuts in equal proportions), 10 pcs. bitter almonds, 5 drops of almond essence, 1/2 cup sugar, half a glass of jam (pitted strawberry or cherry), 2 tbsp butter, 1 cardamom pod, 4 tsp. ground lemon zest, a little ground star anise.
We clean the nuts from the shells, fill them for 2 minutes. boiling water, peel, dry in a hot frying pan, crush in a mortar, adding 1 tsp. warm boiling water to each tablespoon of nuts. Then transfer to a separate bowl. Prepare milk foams (kaymak). Pour the milk into a cast-iron pan, place it in a preheated oven and remove the foams as they brown, putting them in a separate bowl. In total, up to 16 foams can be collected in this way. In the remaining milk, boil thick semolina porridge, making sure that there are no lumps in it. Place crushed nuts, sugar, butter, ground spices into the prepared semolina and mix thoroughly. In an enameled frying pan with high edges or a stewpan, pour semolina porridge with a layer of 1 cm, cover it with foam, pour the next layer of porridge, a quarter thinner, and again cover with foam, and so on. In the last layer of porridge, add jam and star anise. For 10 min. put in a preheated oven with low heat. Remove, grease with jam, add the remaining crushed nuts and serve on the table in the same bowl as cooked.
