Soviet sausage. Sausage production

Now more and more often you will come across statements that in the period of the USSR it was either better, or tastier, or fresher. But I remember how my mother-in-law and I met after work in 1989 on Tverskaya, maybe it was then Gorky Street, and “combed” all the shops, where they “grabbed” cheese, milk, minced meat in queues - we had to feed two hungry men. On coupons - cigarettes, sugar. Sausage? I don't remember how or where I bought it. A couple of years earlier in 1987, I worked in one of the capital's editorial offices, and there was paradise: meat in the store for employees, and any sausage in the buffet and pickles on the table in the dining room. My friends ordered me to buy something for the table for celebrations. By the holidays in special stores, we were given a diverse full set - a couple of loaves of imported high-quality salami - servelat, always very fresh red, white fish, caviar, of course, and a bunch of cans, the existence of which the buyers of Soviet stores did not even suspect. It was a shame to receive these “trunks” of food on May 9th. When our veterans were given 10 times less and poorer. In the glorious Brezhnev years, 1975 - there was a grocery store in our house, and I don’t remember that the counters were empty - two or three types of boiled sausage - “doctoral” - dietary, “amateur” with fat, veal - (sometimes) with tasty fat - they were definitely on sale, and boiled-smoked - "Armavir" and "Krakow" were there. Not always, but very often. For the "Moscow", "Tallinn" - there were queues. However, they were always in the USSR. Mom was friends with the manager - dad with a butcher. Everything was. "From under the counter", as they used to say - almost everyone. But - this is Moscow. And in the summer , I went to my grandmother at sea for 3 months, and they sent me a large box of meat and sausages.In the Crimea, this was not there, or it was expensive on the market.From Saratov, my father's friends came to us, and in the house, before they left, it smelled like in the sausage department. Sausage trains left Moscow for other cities of the USSR. In my desktop "Book of Tasty and Healthy Food" - 1971 edition, 28 varieties of Soviet sausage are listed. There are names that I can’t remember with anything are associated - "chopped ham", "glazed", "puff". But "braunschweig", "servelat", "delicatessen", "soviet" - stepped over from the USSR in our days. This helped me remember about my beloved liverwurst, which was forbidden to me - they say "dogs only eat this." And it was delicious, like everything forbidden. Sausage in the USSR cost: 2.90, 2.20 - boiled, and 3, there, boiled-smoked with kopecks. In any case, the affordability of the price did not affect its quality in any way. They say that after the most powerful drought of 1972 and the loss of livestock, for the first time, changes were made to the GOST for Soviet sausage and ingredients began to be added that outweighed the meat content in it. Our friends in the Baltics had a house and their own household. So I tried it for the first time raw smoked sausage from home smokehouse, aged according to the European recipe - the Spanish "fuet" and did not lie next to it. The secret of the "tastiness" of sausage from the times of the USSR, as in the "psychotest" - is logical - a deficit, memories from the past are almost always tasty. And besides, for many decades sausage was prepared only from fresh meat- chilled. From what - now - it's scary to imagine. The future belongs to the small sausage factories of cooperators. Expensive but delicious.

I always take only "Doctor's" in the store. I do not like anything else, and even more so something with lard. Smoked once a year is possible, ham is so-so rare, but "Doctor's" is super.

But the history of the "Doctor's" sausage is a reflection of almost the entire Soviet history with its twists and turns.

Look here...

The 1930s of the twentieth century were both difficult and joyful for the USSR at the same time. The fratricidal Civil War is over, the national economy is being restored. Almost throughout the entire territory of the country, the unification of individual peasant farms into collective farms has been completed, the kulaks have been liquidated as a class. Great construction projects are underway, a powerful industry is being created, which in a decade will allow the country to win the Great War ...

Despite all the great plans, there is not enough meat in the country - the previous difficult years are affecting. And the health of the population must be restored and maintained - the builders of communism must be strong and healthy. Therefore, the idea arises to create a product with a high protein content that could replace meat. A special role in the creation and development Food Industry in the USSR and in the history of the "Doctor's" sausage will play Anastas Ivanovich Mikoyan, since 1934 the People's Commissar of the Food Industry of the USSR. It was he who had to create the country's food industry from scratch. Mikoyan chose the United States as a model, where this industry was already quite well developed. Thanks to the borrowing of "industrial" American food, several varieties of sausages and sausages, industrially processed milk, various canned food, ice cream appeared on the tables of Soviet citizens ...

Under the close personal supervision of Mikoyan, the construction of several large food industry enterprises begins in the USSR - for the production of milk, sausage products, canned food.

April 29, 1936 A.I. Mikoyan signed a decree on the start of the production of several varieties of sausages, a special place among which was occupied by a sausage designed to "correct the health of people who had poor health as a result of the Civil War and suffered from the arbitrariness of the tsarist regime." It was assumed that this type of sausage would be intended for those treated in sanatoriums and hospitals.

The formulation of this product was developed by the best specialists of the country, doctors, employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry. According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), 100 kg of sausage should contain 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of bold pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of cow's milk dry whole or fat free. Minced meat for sausage was made from fresh meat and had to go through a double cutting. As seasonings, a minimum of cooking was used. edible salt; granulated sugar or glucose; ground nutmeg or cardamom, spicy seasonings were excluded.

There is a legend that initially they wanted to give the name “Stalinskaya” to this sausage. However, the authors of the recipe quickly realized that the combination "Stalin's sausage" could be misunderstood by the all-powerful NKVD and came up with a name that remained in history and well reflected the quality and purpose of this product.
Until the 1950s, the recipe and quality of the sausage was unchanged according to the standard. Of course, the sausages produced by different meat processing plants varied. It also depended on the quality of the raw materials supplied to the plant and on the experience of the employees. The sausage of the Mikoyanovsky Meat Processing Plant became an ideal and a model - the metropolitan giant, which supplied the nomenclature in the first place, purchased the most expensive and high-quality raw materials. At the same time, sausage was by no means an integral part of the special ration of representatives of the party and state elite - it could be bought in almost any grocery store.
Interestingly, the cost of "Doctor's" was significantly higher than its retail price. In the shops "Doctor" was sold at 2 rubles 20 kopecks. With this money in the mid-70s, you could buy, for example, 220 boxes of matches, 11 ice creams in a waffle cup, 10 packs of Belomorkanal cigarettes, i.e. the price of this sausage was quite acceptable for ordinary citizens.

Changes in the quality of sausages began only in the 70s and this was primarily due to the difficulties that the continuously reformed agriculture began to experience and, of course, the drought and crop failure in the early 70s. It was at this time that it was allowed to add up to 2% starch or flour to minced meat.

Cardinal changes in the fate of sausages - like all countries - will begin in the mid-80s. The composition of the feedstock will change, in 1997 a new GOST will appear, in accordance with which the name “doctoral” will turn into a brand.

There is such an addition. Here is the phrase: According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), 100 kg of sausage should have contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of semi-fat pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of dry whole cow's milk per 100 kg of sausage. or low fat"

This is all fine, but there is another point in this GOST:

2.6. Allowed for production boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves apply:
food phosphates in the amount of 0.3% by weight of raw materials (in terms of anhydrous);

- sodium ascorbate or ascorbic acid in the amount of 50 g per 100 kg of raw materials;

Smoke preparations approved by the USSR Ministry of Health;

Pasteurized cow's milk mass fraction fat 2.5 and 3.2% in the amount of 8 kg instead of 1 kg of whole milk powder with a decrease in the mass of added moisture by 7 kg;

Pasteurized cow's milk in the amount of 11.5 kg instead of 1 kg of dry skimmed milk with a decrease in the mass of added moisture by 10.5 kg;

Powdered cream with a fat content of 42% in the amount of 1 kg instead of 2.1 kg of cream from cow's milk with 20% fat content;

Cow dry whole milk with a fat content of 25% in the amount of 1 kg instead of 610 g of dry cream with a fat content of 42% or 1281 g of cream from cow's milk with 20% fat content;

egg powder in the amount of 274 g instead of 1 kg of melange or 1 kg (24 pcs.) of chicken eggs;

Trimmed buffalo, yak meat instead of trimmed beef of the corresponding grade in the production of premium grade sausages up to 50%, first and second grades up to 100%;

Boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the highest and first grade with manufacturing defects (scrap, deformed loaves, with minced meat over the shell, broth-fat edema, etc.) for the production of boiled sausages, sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade; second grade - for the production of sausages and meat loaves of the second grade in an amount of up to 3% by weight of raw materials in excess of the recipe;

Hemoglobin preparation or food blood in the amount of 0.5-1% by weight of the raw material;

Extracts of spices and garlic instead of natural ones;

Trim beef trimmed in an amount of up to 10% - for beef sausages and sausages of the first grade and up to 30% - for tea sausage, meat loaf tea to the mass of trimmed beef of the second grade, provided for by the recipes, instead of its corresponding amount;

Cut meat trimmed pork in an amount of up to 10% - for boiled sausages, meat loaves, sausages of the first grade and up to 20% - for boiled sausages, meat loaves of the second grade to the mass of trimmed bold pork, provided for in the recipes, instead of its corresponding amount. It is not allowed to use beef trimmed beef trimmings and trimmed pork trimmed meat trimmed together;

Protein stabilizer to the mass of raw materials in an amount of up to 5% - for boiled sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade and up to 6% - for boiled sausages and meat loaves of the second grade;

The mass of meat beef, pork and mutton to the mass of raw materials in an amount of up to 5% - for boiled sausages, sausages and meat loaves of the first grade and up to 6% - for boiled sausages and meat loaves of the second grade. For separate mutton sausage - up to 15% of the mass of meat from lean mutton instead of single-grade trimmed mutton;

The mass of meat beef, pork or mutton, obtained by processing the bone in saline solutions, in the amount of 4 kg instead of 1 kg of meat mass obtained by mechanical pressing, with a decrease in the mass of added water by 3 kg;

Food plasma (serum) of the blood of slaughtered animals to the mass of raw materials in the following quantities:

up to 5% instead of added water in the production of boiled sausages, frankfurters, sausages and meat loaves of the highest grade;

up to 15% in return for added water in the production of boiled sausages, frankfurters, sausages and meat loaves of the first and second grade;

up to 10% instead of 2% trimmed pork meat and 8% water or 3% trimmed beef (or lamb) meat and 7% water

or up to 15% instead of 3% trimmed pork and 12% water or 4% trimmed beef (or mutton) and 11% water;

Cuts obtained from cleaning boiled smoked meats instead of raw beef or pork fat in an amount of up to 10% in the production of beef sausages, beef sausages, beef meat bread;

Pasteurized non-fat cow's milk instead of added water in an amount 5% higher than the recommended rate of water, except for doctor's sausages, milk sausages, with sorbitol, ordinary sausages, dairy sausages;

We started to produce this sausage in 1936 year, adapted the recipe for sausage and the technology for its manufacture by the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry, and for the first time carried out the production of the Moscow Meat Processing Plant named after. . Sausage was intended as a dietary (therapeutic) food for patients with somatic signs of the consequences of prolonged starvation (specifically, "... patients with poor health as a result of the Civil War and tsarist despotism"). It is believed that due to the high popularity of the name "Doctor's" sausage has become the object of numerous imitations and fakes.

Beef pulp - 250 gr.
Pulp of bold pork - 700 gr.
Natural milk - 200 gr.
Egg - 1 pc.
Sugar - 3 gr.
Salt - 2 gr.
Ground cardamom - 0.5 gr.

Minced meat preparation
Beef and pork meat must be passed through a meat grinder twice. The first time with a large mesh, the second with a small one. Add spices (cardamom, sugar, salt) to minced meat. Mix everything thoroughly. Add egg with milk. Minced beat with a blender. The result is a viscous mass. Don't worry about the color of the sausage. After all, you get a natural color (without dyes). We put the prepared mass in the refrigerator and keep it there for about an hour. If you want the homemade doctor's sausage to have a pink color, then you can add high quality vodka or cognac to the minced meat ( 2 tablespoons).

Preparation of sausage casings
Doctor's sausage requires careful preparation of the casing. At home, you can use both artificial and natural. It must be cut into pieces 25-30 see After that, rinse the shells with warm, slightly salted water and, on one side, tie their ends with cotton twine, stepping back from the edge 2 see A simpler option is to use a roasting sleeve with a width 30 cm.

Sausage stuffing
We fill our shells with minced meat. You can use a special device for this (for example, a meat grinder with the necessary nozzle) for stuffing sausages. Then we form sausages, tightly pressing the shell with our hands. After that, on the other hand, we tie the shell tightly. In conclusion, you need to carefully examine each sausage and, if large air bubbles are found, gently pierce them with a thin needle.

Sausage cooking
In a saucepan, heat water to 95 degrees and place blanks in it. Doctor's sausage at home is cooked at a temperature 85-87 degrees throughout 50 minutes. The main thing to remember is that the water should never boil. . The final stage At this stage, after cooking, the doctor's sausage is cooled immediately under running water (it will be enough to allocate just a few seconds for this process). Next, the sausage is cooled at room temperature, and after that in the refrigerator. Homemade doctor's sausage The storage conditions for such doctor's sausage are quite simple: the temperature should be 4-8 degrees, and as for the period, then you need to use it within 72 hours.

IN Soviet times the sausage was perfect. Any technologist of any sausage production will confirm this to you. Now you won’t be able to get a sausage of this quality, even if you try to do it without sparing money.
Reference: In 1990, 2,283 thousand tons of sausage were made in the RSFSR, 15.4 kg per capita. In 2009, 2238 thousand tons of sausage were made in the Russian Federation, 15.7 kg per capita.

1958 Kyiv. Shop "Ukrainian sausages"
All Soviet sausages were made according to GOST. For example Doctoral:
According to GOST 23670-79 for 100 kg of sausage
trimmed beef of the highest grade - 25;
pork trimmed bold - 70;
chicken eggs or melange - 3;
cow's milk powder whole or skimmed - 2;
edible salt - 2.090;
sodium nitrite - 0.0071;
granulated sugar or glucose - 0.2;
ground nutmeg or ground cardamom - 0.05.
There were no toilet paper, preservatives, flavor enhancers, dyes, carrageenans, vegetable, animal and milk proteins, phosphates.

The fact that GOST was strictly observed and for the slightest violation the responsible person would have sat down for a very long time, I hope you have no doubt?

Now there are no such recipes. All of the above additives, which did not exist then, but now do not improve the quality of the sausage at all, but allow you to sell water and use low-quality meat (frozen, stale, not the fat content).

Further. Let's say for elite stores they decided to make a classic Doctoral despite the price. Well, let's say they even bought eggs and found nutmeg with cardomom not in the composition of functional mixtures. Where can you get meat? In Russia and Europe, cattle are now fed with such things that even in terms of protein content it is fundamentally different from the “normal” Soviet one. Good meat can be bought (it is possible, but expensive and they buy something else) in South America. But delivering it chilled will not work. And from frozen meat, which now employs at least 90% of meat processing enterprises, the “correct” sausage cannot be made. I’ll tell you a secret - nothing good can be cooked from frozen meat, and in the vast majority of cases, defrosted meat [thawed] is sold in stores under the guise of chilled meat.

I talked at several enterprises with technologists who were trying to produce Soviet-quality sausage. Everyone said that it did not work out because of the inability to find high-quality meat raw materials. Even when buying raw meat from private traders in a live form, they are convinced that households are also fed with “modern” feeds that do not have a very good effect on meat.

Well, I will give an example of a modern recipe that you like (I will not write specific names of spices and proteins):
Mechanically deboned meat 45
Chicken skin 35
Animal protein 2
Water 18
Salt 1.8
Mix of spices Combi 0.8
Dye 0.06
Milk flavor 0.06
Preservative freshener 0.3
Dry smoke 0.02
Emulsifier (sodium alginate) 0.5
Sodium nitrite 0.0075
Process water (ice) 8
Please note that out of 111 kg of sausage they sold only 45 kg of meat, and 26 kg of water, 40 kg of other filth, but according to statistics, all this will pass like meat. Eat dear Russians.

What about toilet paper. About ten years ago, a technologist friend took out the price lists of Western suppliers and said: “Well, the dream of toilet paper in sausage has come true - we are offered food pulp for sausage products.”

By the way, how much did this sausage make in the RSFSR?

In 1990 - 2,283 thousand tons, 15.4 kg per poor Soviet soul. It was very small, so there was a terrible shortage of sausages. People could drop everything and go on a trip to Moscow for a couple of days in order to bring a Doctor's stick and three rings of Krakovskaya from there to the starving children. Soviet men took only those women as wives who had several such sausage walkers behind them ...

But the terrible scarce times have passed, the Great Sausage Revolution swept away the retrogrades from power, the doors of freedom and abundance opened wide. In 2009, in the Russian Federation, having destroyed the livestock and many totalitarian meat processing plants, with the help of thousands of small sausage shops and without any unnecessary cattle, using only bare entrepreneurial ingenuity, they produced as many as 2,238 thousand tons of sausage products, or 15.7 kg per free Russian soul . Today, we can see sausage on every shabby counter, at any price from 60 to 1260 rubles per kilogram, and the new generation of Russians does not want to believe that someone could go to hell in the middle of nowhere for such garbage. Before our eyes, the Soviet sausage has become a legend.

I continue to acquaint the reader with the history of Soviet sausage according to the reference book of 1960 (Konnikov A.G. Handbook for the production of sausages and semi-finished meat products. 2nd ed., revised, supplemented. - M.: Pishchepromizdat, 1960). Today we will find out the composition and technological requirements for the production of Soviet boiled sausages. Did they add water and ice to the sausage, pork skin, soy fillers, crushed bones, preservatives, toilet paper and the blood of repressed dissidents?

* * *

Moscow and sausage

Population of Moscow:

1912 - 1.617 million people
1915 - 1.817 million people

Glavmeat. Statistical and economic reference book. - M.: Pishchepromizdat, 1936

* * *

210 varieties of Soviet sausage and smoked meats.

A list of all the main varieties of sausages and meat delicacies that were produced in 1960 at the meat processing plants of the USSR. So, the assortment of Soviet sausages and smoked meats according to the reference book of 1960 (Konnikov A.G. Handbook for the production of sausages and meat semi-finished products. 2nd ed., revised, supplemented - M .: Pishchepromizdat, 1960):

The food industry of the USSR in 1960 produced 1,351,000 tons of sausages, or 6.3 kg per capita.

As the memory of eyewitnesses suggests, by 1970 the situation with sausage in Soviet trade had worsened, apparently because the Soviet industry produced 2 million 286 thousand tons of sausage products in 1970, or 9.4 kg per capita.

Often, when we hear the word "history", we imagine the dusty shelves of archives and libraries, something distant and dilapidated. We rarely think about the fact that history lives in our home, in the most familiar everyday things and even food… And it is they who, having told their story, can tell the history of the country. Don't believe?

Then answer the question - what products from the table of an ordinary Soviet person can we still meet now, on our table? That's right: Borodino bread, ice cream, soda "Baikal" and "Duchess", however, you can list for a long time. But, perhaps, the most honorable place will be taken by "Doctor's" sausage - one of the most popular food products today, which has become a kind of symbol of the Soviet country and one of the most famous brands of our time.

But the history of the "Doctor's" sausage is a reflection of almost the entire Soviet history with its kinks and complexities.

A special role in the creation and development of the food industry in the USSR and in the history of the "Doctor's" sausage will be played by Anastas Ivanovich, since 1934 the People's Commissar of the Food Industry of the USSR. It was he who had to create the country's food industry from scratch. Mikoyan chose the United States as a model, where this industry was already quite well developed. Thanks to the borrowing of "industrial" American food, several varieties of sausages and sausages, industrially processed milk, various canned food, ice cream appeared on the tables of Soviet citizens ...

Under the close personal control of Mikoyan, the construction of several large food industry enterprises began in the USSR - for the manufacture of milk, sausages, and canned food.

The formulation of this product was developed by the best specialists of the country, doctors, employees of the All-Russian Research Institute of the Meat Industry. According to the recipe (GOST 23670-79), 100 kg of sausage should have contained 25 kg of premium beef, 70 kg of semi-fat pork, 3 kg of eggs or melange and 2 kg of cow's milk powder whole or skimmed for 100 kg of sausage. Minced meat for sausage was made from fresh meat and had to go through a double cutting. As seasonings, a minimum of table salt was used; granulated sugar or glucose; ground nutmeg or cardamom, spicy seasonings were excluded.

Until the 1950s, the recipe and quality of the sausage was unchanged according to the standard. Of course, the sausages produced by different meat processing plants varied. It also depended on the quality of the raw materials supplied to the plant and on the experience of the employees. The sausage of the Mikoyanovsky Meat Processing Plant became an ideal and a model - the metropolitan giant, which supplied the nomenclature in the first place, purchased the most expensive and high-quality raw materials. At the same time, sausage was by no means an integral part of the special ration of representatives of the party and state elite - it could be bought in almost any grocery store.

Interestingly, the cost of "Doctor's" was significantly higher than its retail price. In the shops "Doctor" was sold at 2 rubles 20 kopecks. With this money in the mid-70s, you could buy, for example, 220 boxes of matches, 11 ice creams in a waffle cup, 10 packs of Belomorkanal cigarettes, i.e. the price of this sausage was quite acceptable for ordinary citizens.

But still, most of us, coming to the meat department of a supermarket and choosing a sausage, will first of all pay attention to the name "Doctor's" ....

Born in the USSR: Doktorskaya Sausage and Car "Kopeyka"